Jewelery Making Tips - Soldering With Silver Solder

Soldering is the process of fusing or joining two or more metal items together using a flux and solder and incorporating heat as the catalyst. But before you can begin soldering, there are several things to be considered. The design itself must lend itself to soldering, the parts to be soldered must fit closely and the correct solder and flux need to be used.

Soldering Supplies

There are four basic types of silver solder, classified according to their melting points - ex-easy, easy, medium and hard. An easy grade solder will melt at a lower temperature compared to hard grade solder. Solder has to conform to the same hallmarking standard as the metal being worked upon, so Stirling silver pieces will need to be soldered using silver solder. The first thing to do before beginning to apply any heat to the piece is to ensure that it is thoroughly cleaned. The piece can then be annealed, which is the initial softening of the silver to be joined. Only the area that is taking the solder needs this treatment. A blowtorch at a temperature of around 1200 degrees F will suffice and as the findings heat up they will change in color to a dull pink.

Soldering Supplies

Once this process has been carried out you can then apply the flux. This is a chemical cleaning agent that cleans the silver findings and the solder of any remaining oxide film and allows the solder to flow freely. The most effective flux is borax, which can be ground with a little water to form a paste that is then directly applied to the piece you are soldering. Check that there are no visible gaps between the two pieces of metal that you want to solder. As solder has a capillary action when liquid, any gaps between the two surfaces will allow the solder to run down one side of the seam and leave a messy finish.

Once the joint is coated on both faces with flux, you can then apply the flame to heat the item. A mixture of gas and compressed air is generally the best combination for torch soldering, as fine adjustments of the flame size and temperature are more easily obtainable. The flame shouldn't rest over one area but be moved constantly to prevent damaging the surfaces of the piece. If you have preplaced your solder at the joint seam prior to heating, once the correct temperature is reached the solder should flow into the joint. The alternative is to feed the tip of the solder (if it is in wire form) onto the joint where it should melt on contact and again flow into the seam.

Any flux residue can be removed by soaking the piece in hot water. If you find it difficult to remove the residue, soaking the piece in a solution of 5-10% sulfuric acid for a few minutes and then rinsing in hot water should remove any last traces. Do take into account any precious or semi-precious stones that are incorporated into the piece, as the acid (even at low concentrations) may affect the surface of the gem.

As with all hobbies that include the use of heat, make sure that your work surface is suitably protected and that you consider all safety issues before beginning your work.

Jewelery Making Tips - Soldering With Silver Solder
Soldering Supplies

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Hakko Tip Cleaner, 599B-02, Non-Corrosive, No Water Needed Feature

  • "shell" design keeps the solder from splattering
  • Will not reduce the tip temperature
  • A great alternative to the conventional damp sponge
  • No mineral buildup or oxidation as occurs with soldering iron sponge
  • May be used as a portable tool holder and cleaner


Hakko Tip Cleaner, 599B-02, Non-Corrosive, No Water Needed Overview

Cleans your soldering iron tips without water! Made from coils of brass, which is softer than the tip plating yet harder than the oxidation that forms on the tip. To clean the tip, simply plunge (stab) the iron tip into the coils. The ideal alternative to a wet sponge.



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Weller SP23L Marksman Lighted Soldering Iron Feature

  • Indicator light shows iron is on
  • Quality consumer mini iron
  • Featherweight iron with pencil handle
  • Includes on 1/8-Inch replaceable tip.
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Weller SP23L Marksman Lighted Soldering Iron Overview

Type: Non-temperature Controlled
Wattage: 25 W
Temperature Range: 750° F
Cord Length: 6 ft.
Components Supplied: MT1





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Supplies For Getting Started in Stained Glass

This list is meant to aid create a shopping list for the beginning stained glass art student. Not all of the items will be essential for every project, for instance you will employ either lead cames OR copper foil and their corresponding accessories dependent on the stained glass style you will be using. Other tools listed may well be very helpful, but not entirely necessary, one pair of pliers may be adequate to do several jobs for example.

Soldering Supplies

Glass Cutters - One of the most significant tools you will employ in stained glass making, good glass cuts will make or break your job. These range from very inexpensive carbide steel wheel cutters (you will require to include cutting oil as you go along) to slightly more expensive self-oiling tungsten carbide or pistol grip wheel cutters.

Soldering Supplies

Cutting Oil - This assists reduce friction allowing a smoother cut and in addition keeps glass debris from encumbering the cutting wheel's progress.

Soldering Iron - (pronounced like soddering) This is once did melt lead solder which in turn is accustomed to join bits of metal, such as the lead cames or copper foil that will hold your glass pieces together.

Solder - The type you will be employing in stained glass making should be an alloy (mixture) of tin and lead. This normally enters a spool of either a 50/50 or 60/40 blend. The 60/40 is slightly more expensive, flows more smoothly and is consequently preferable for making a glass project.

Sal Ammoniac - This is soldering iron tip cleaner made from a naturally occurring mineral that reacts to the heat of the soldering iron and removes debris when the iron is gently rubbed on it.

Flux - Helps remove oxidation and other dirt and debris from the metal surfaces so that the solder can adhere to it. This is an absolute necessity to keep your glass pieces together; the solder just won't "stick" without it!

Flux Brush - A very inexpensive brush used to put on the flux.

Flux Remover - Can be familiar with neutralize flux or patina and is oftentimes used at the conclusion of projects to tidy up small errors and over-flow.

Cutting Square - Helpful when drawing squares or other designs requiring a right angle.

Ruler - Employed for measuring project dimensions in addition to for drawing or cutting a straight line. A non-skid backing like cork or rubber will help keep it from sliding on the glass.

Pattern Shears - These are the special scissors that automatically cut the proper size strip of paper between pattern pieces to allow room for the lead cames or copper foils to be placed between the various glass bits of the purpose.

Grozing Pliers - These pliers have narrow, serrated jaws for picking up small chucks of glass and can be used to remove uneven or jagged pieces of stained glass after cutting.

Running Pliers - These thick pliers help to carefully break stained glass pieces that have been scored on the purpose furrows.

Needle Nose Pliers - A good all around tool to possess handy, can be employed for small detail work.

Wire Cutters - These can be used to cut reinforcing wire or the picture hanging wire to hang your finished glass art project.

Hammer or Mallet - A good rubber headed mallet can be used to gently tap stained glass pieces into place.

Carborundum Stone - A trademarked name for a grinding tool once was smooth the edges of cut pieces of stained glass. Should be wetted periodically to make smoothing easier.

Electric Glass Grinder - A bit bigger technique to smooth the glass edges; this is a machine that will do the job faster and more efficiently. This is definitely nice, but optional.

Copper Foil - One of the choices of material to grasp the pieces of stained glass together. Enters various widths depending on the appearance of your job- make certain your pattern shears are similar width as your foil or came.

Copper Foil Dispenser - One other nicety, this makes handling the copper foil easier, much the way a tape dispenser makes tape easier to deal with.

Lead Cames - The original choice in stained glass support systems. These come as long strips of lead with grooves or channels on either one side or both, depending on whether it is to be used as an inside or fringes piece of the stained glass.

Lead Vise - Holds the lead were sent out place to allow it to be stretched before use.

Lead Cutters - Also called lead pliers these snips are especially helpful when trimming cames for use in the corners of your stained glass project.

Lead Knife - Can be employed to make clean straight cuts on lead cames.

Horseshoe Nails - Great for holding frames in place when assembling your stained glass project.

Dustpan and Brush - Helps to look after your workplace clean which is important in making stained glass projects because debris will prevent things from sticking properly.

Security Goggles - Keeps bits of lead or glass from damaging the eyes during cutting, always keep in mind "wellbeing first"!

Wooden Block Holder - Can be useful for holding pieces of stained glass.

Masking Tape - Always handy in the workshop; may be familiar with hold pattern pieces together or a number of other uses.

Picture Hanging Wire or Other Fasteners - For hanging your completed stained glass project.

Lead Plank with Right Angle Support - Helpful in holding a lead stained glass project in place during assembly while keeping the edges clean and straight.

Timber or Plastic Fid - Great as a burnishing or spreading tool when applying foil to stained glass.

Glazing Concrete - Seals and beefs up the joint areas of the lead cames.

Whiting - Serves to dry and set the glazing concrete. Can also be familiar with remove excess putty from the stained glass.

Stiff Bristle Brush - Used for trying glazing cement.

Patina - Liquid answer that changes the appearance of solder, can give a more antiqued visual aspect.

Rubber Your mitts - Completely necessary when employing patina or any other solvents to the project; you do not want these penetrating your skin!

Mirror Sealer - This aerosol spray is used on the rear of mirrors to possess the reflective coating from being scratched or damaged.

Finishing Compound - Offers the finishing touch to your stained glass project, adding polish and shine while providing a protective finish to aid prevent oxidation and tarnish buildup.

Pushpins, Tacks and Jig Material - Items that might be of use in holding certain pieces together while assembling your stained glass project.

Craft Knife - Perfect for correcting small errors in copper foiling and other small tasks.

Steel Wool - May remove oxidized material from solder and other metal parts.

Plastic Basin and Sponge - With warm soapy water to clean glass and metal debris from your stained glass workspace.

Carbon Paper - For making pattern copies.

Tracing Paper - For tracing the original design unto a clean copy.

Rubber Concrete - For holding pattern pieces on glass to make cutting them out easier.

Pens, Pencils, Markers and Colored Pencils - Required for drawing and coloring in pattern pieces.

There you have it, a not-so-condensed shopping list to get you on your way to a new hobby in stained glass art making!

Supplies For Getting Started in Stained Glass
Soldering Supplies

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Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron Kit Feature

  • Tips and accessories screw on easily
  • Includes complete kit
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  • Automatic cut-off switch when cap is inserted


Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron Kit Overview

The new Portasol® cordless soldering tool from Weller® gives you the ultimate in portable power and convenience for all your soldering jobs. Slide the fuel button forward, press the piezo switch, and the tool's super-fast heat-up lets you melt solder in under a minute. The Portasol® cordless soldering tool is powerful too, adjusting from the equivalent of 25 to 75 watts for temperatures up to 850°F. Refueled with standard butane in just 20 seconds, the Portasol® P2C lasts for up to an hour of continuous use. Kit includes tool with five tips (PPT6 3/32" double flat soldering tip, PPT12 flame tip, PPT10 hot knife tip, PPT9 hot air tip, and PPT11 hot air deflector tip), sponge and tray, tool holder, storage case, and instructions. Mfg. #P2KC. Replacement tips available.



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Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch Feature

  • Rubber, diamond-shaped, grid-designed body, for safe grip
  • Gas-flow adjustment lever, to control flame length and width
  • Attachable tabletop stand, for hands-free use
  • Piezoelectric ignition system, requires no electrical connection
  • 2,500-degree F, blue-torch flame, for more precise flame tip


Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch Overview

The GB2001, Blazer’s original butane refillable micro torch, is a time-tested, gas torch that creates a precise flame emitting from a nozzle head, allowing direct heat application to an object. It is commonly used for detailed purposes such as brazing, plumbing, soldering, jewelry making, culinary, automotive and dental and lab applications.

The GB2001 has a rubber, diamond-shaped, outer body finish, for safe grip and ease of use. It features a gas flow adjustment lever to allow for ease of flame heat and precision change. Its torch flame is adjustable from yellow to more precise and hot blue flame. The torch comes with an attachable, tabletop stand for hands-free work. It offers a long burn time, compared to some other Blazer micro torch products.

The torch houses a piezoelectric ignition system, which is based on a pressurized molecular reaction, and requires no electric connection. Piezoelectric energy occurs when the trigger is activated, releasing a small, spring-loaded internal hammer that strikes a crystal, producing a spark and resulting in gas flame ignition.

With a maximum flame temperature of 2,500 degrees F, the GB2001 has a continuous burn time of approximately 1.5 to 2.0 hours, at maximum fuel volume, and has a 26-gram gas capacity. The torch head has a 90-degree fixed angle, and its flame range is 0.5 to 1.25 inches. It has a safety component that offers manual lock of the ignition, when not in use. It measures 6.0 (l) x 3.0 (w) x 2.5 (d) inches, weighs 6.8 ounces and has a black body finish. This product is intended strictly for use in professional and industrial environments. In accordance with federal regulations, home use of this product is prohibited.

Since 1985, Blazer Products has created an array of professional and industrial tools and equipment. Located in Farmingdale, NY, the company manufactures a variety of micro torches and ultrasonic cleaners. Blazer Products is known worldwide for its original micro torch products.

The GB2001 torch operates with a standard butane canister (sold separately).





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Soldering Flux - The Stained Glass Magic Elixir?

For those of us that work with stained glass, "soldering flux" is one of those "gotta use it" items that we know we need, but we just don't like to talk about. Shhh, it's secret stuff! Whether we use the liquid, prefer the paste, or swear by the gel, we understand "what" it does, but we really don't know the "how" or the "why". Today, I'll attempt to fill-in the blanks, and answer those questions.

Soldering Supplies

The way I see it, fluxes shouldn't be categorized by their form factor: Liquids, pastes, or gels all work well, and it's largely a matter of preference which to use. The addition of glycerin or emulsifiers can change the form factor, but they really don't participate to a large extent in the chemistry that makes a flux "flux".

Soldering Supplies

Which begs the question, "What does a flux actually do?" During the soldering action, a flux is responsible for three tasks:

Dissolving of the metal oxide (MO) layer of the metal, Protecting the metal surface against further oxidation, and Enabling the "wetting" action of the solder, by lowering surface tension.Some may argue that a fourth task might be, "creating a strong bond between the base metal and the solder", but I argue that by the time the bonding takes place, the flux has done it's job, and has left the scene. And this is really the "why" answer; we use flux so that we can create a strong bond between the foil (or came) and the solder. In other words, we want good solder lines.

In order to understand "how" flux performs it's magic, we need to categorize them according to their chemical composition. I prefer to break fluxes down into three categories this way:

Highly-active, acid-based fluxes, Rosin-based environmentally-friendly "safety" fluxes, and Mild restoration fluxes.Let's look at each of these in detail:

Acid-based fluxes
This category of fluxes includes most of the "everyday" fluxes used by glassers. They contain one or more salt compounds, typically ammonium chloride (aka, Sal Ammoniac) and/or zinc chloride (aka, Killed Spirits), which are highly reactive with the metal oxides (aka, tarnish) on the surface of foil or came. These fluxes usually also contain a strong acid, such as hydrochloric acid, as a "pickling" agent.

One note about acid-based fluxes; they must be removed from your stained glass project, by washing with soap and water and/or neutralizing with "Kwik-Clean", after soldering is complete. If the flux is left on, "white mold" will develop over the course of time on solder lines. This "white mold" isn't really "mold" at all, but a continued reaction between the flux and the base metal, resulting in a moldy-looking formation of salts; namely lead nitrate (a carcinogen) or stannous chloride.

Rosin-based safety fluxes
A second type of flux, one that I prefer, is made from certain species of pine trees, specifically the pine tar from these trees. If we "distill" the pine tar, we end up with "rosin" (aka, colophony), which is a blend of mild acids and other compounds. If you've ever heard of "rosin-core solder" used in electronics, this is the same stuff wrapped in solder, albeit in a slightly different form factor. (Note: rosin-core solder should not be used for stained glass).

I like these fluxes because they are environmentally friendly; you aren't washing zinc chloride down the sink when you clean your project. And because they are milder, they can be left on your foil or came for a longer time, without fear of pitting or corrosion.

Cleanup is easier with a rosin-based flux, because it easily dissolves in water, unlike the "greasier" acid-based fluxes.

Mild restoration fluxes
These fluxes are used for restoration work, primarily lead came. They have a higher pH, and as a result, are milder. The fluxes that fall in this category are oleic acid and steric acid.

They are also a good choice for beginners learning lead came, but are not recommended for copper foil. They don't have the punch needed to pickle the copper.

Final Word
I hope I've taken some of the mystery out of stained glass flux, so that you can better understand the "why's" and "how's" of stained glass.

As always, whenever you are working with a soldering iron, you should work in a well-ventilated area, as the fumes given off (zinc oxide and acid fumes) can cause respiratory problems down the road. Also, if your skin comes in contact with flux, be sure to wash well with soap and hot water.

And always wear your safety glasses with side-shields! Molten solder can splash up in your face, so always work safely.

Soldering Flux - The Stained Glass Magic Elixir?
Soldering Supplies

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Weller SP23LHPK Marksman 25 Watt Soldering Iron Home Project Kit Feature

  • SP23L 25-watt soldering iron with accessories
  • Develops 750 deg.F temperature
  • Stainless steel barrel-heat resistant handle
  • Knife cutting tip and blade chuck
  • Conical soldering tip - 2 chisel soldering tips


Weller SP23LHPK Marksman 25 Watt Soldering Iron Home Project Kit Overview

mfr: COOPER TOOLS 6-PC HOME PROJECT IRON KIT SP23L 25-watt soldering iron with accessories Develops 750 deg.F temperature Stainless steel barrel-heat resistant handle Knife cutting tip and blade chuck Conical soldering tip - 2 chisel soldering tips Soldering resource booklet and iron stand Ideal for hobbies, radios, electrical work On/Off light indicator ring - UL Listed SP23LHPK SOLDERING IRON



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60 Watt Soldering Iron

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60 Watt Soldering Iron Feature

  • Soldering iron is light weight, fast heating, and has an extra long life.
  • Soldering iron is ideal for hobbies, workshop, and general home use.
  • Soldering iron works at 110/120 Volt, 60 Watt.


60 Watt Soldering Iron Overview

60 watt soldering iron features: Soldering iron is light weight, fast heating, and has an extra long life. Soldering iron is ideal for hobbies, workshop, and general home use. Soldering iron works at 110/120 Volt, 60 Watt.



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Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Feature

  • 40-watt soldering iron ideal for electronics hobbyists
  • Develops 900 degrees F/482 degrees C temperature
  • Indicator light; stainless steel barrel; impact-resistant handle
  • Replaceable nickel-plated copper tip
  • 8-1/4 inches long; UL listed


Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Overview

The Weller Marksman 40-watt soldering iron is the perfect tool for the beginner or hobbyist in electronics. Constructed to be high-quality and lightweight, this mini-pencil tool has a replaceable nickel-plated copper tip and a stainless steel barrel, plus a heat and impact-resistant handle. Its indicator light lets you see instantly whether or not the iron is activated, and it develops a temperature up to 900 degrees F/482 degrees C. This soldering iron is UL listed for safety.

Weller SP40L Marksman 40 Watt Soldering Iron Specifications

The Weller Marksman 40-watt soldering iron is the perfect tool for the beginner or hobbyist in electronics. Constructed to be high-quality and lightweight, this mini-pencil tool has a replaceable nickel-plated copper tip and a stainless steel barrel, plus a heat and impact-resistant handle. Its indicator light lets you see instantly whether or not the iron is activated, and it develops a temperature up to 900 degrees F/482 degrees C. This soldering iron is UL listed for safety.

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